I Live in Seville and This is What I Don't Recommend Doing During Holy Week

The capital of Andalusia experiences its spring festivities with genuine fervor and passion. Holy Week (and the Fair) largely define the collective imagination of Andalusia and Spain, giving it an identity that is known and recognized globally. This makes it one of the most prominent Holy Weeks in Spain. But how is Holy Week lived in Seville? And, more importantly, how can one enjoy it like the locals when visiting the city during these special dates?

Seville is the second city in the world with the most churches in its urban core. Only Rome has more. And while many Sevillians choose to escape the city to beach areas like Cádiz and Huelva, many others stay to experience a spectacle that is unique in the world and that, without some basic guidelines for context, may not be enjoyed as it deserves.

Still without plans for Holy Week? In our special eBook, you can find a selection of the best celebrations in our country.

Expectations are thieves of enjoyment, and visiting Seville during Holy Week while thinking it will be like the photographs or reports can lead to subsequent frustration. In many cases, the best approach is to blend in with the ambiance, knowing that crowds (referred to as bullas) are very common.

As is often the case, the best thing is to go with the flow, adapt to the circumstances, and experience it in the most respectful, curious, and cultural way possible, understanding that for many people, it is a lifestyle that must be accepted and appreciated, learning as one would with a small child. There is a sparkle in their eyes, excitement, and fascination in witnessing the jewel they are about to behold and of which they are already a part by being there.

The brotherhoods parade on specific days, trying, as much as possible, to narrate chronologically and descriptively the events surrounding the Passion of Christ, the central axis of Christianity. Thus, from Palm Sunday, one can see the representation of Jesus' arrival in Jerusalem on La Borriquita to his crucifixion, burial, and resurrection in the last days of the week.

To have the best possible control over the schedules for the departures, arrivals, routes, and itineraries of the 60 brotherhoods, it is best to get one of the guides published for the occasion. One of the most famous is El llamador, where you can delve into the necessary information to identify the different brotherhoods, the days they go in procession, the number of nazarenes, and recommendations on where to watch them pass at the most attractive, popular, historic, or photogenic points along their route.

During Holy Week, it tends to get warm, although it can also rain since it is spring. Additionally, the bullas can be quite crowded, and if you're not somewhat prepared, you may experience cases of anxiety, fainting, or heat exhaustion. It is best to stay well-hydrated and have easily digestible food in your stomach since most events can be witnessed from the afternoon until well into the night. However, people are very accustomed to these types of crowds and manage them naturally. There's no need to fear them, as they are an unavoidable part of experiencing Holy Week on the streets.

Regarding dining, it's better to eat away from the city center on those days. The bars and restaurants in the busiest areas set up counters outside their establishments and limit their offerings to fried foods, sandwiches, a specific beer brand, soft drinks, and water, prioritizing speed of service over quality in many cases. To eat or dine comfortably, it's better to do so in peripheral neighborhoods and, if possible, make a reservation at the establishment. And of course, one mustn't forget to indulge in some of the typical sweets.

Enjoying the brotherhoods parading through the streets near their churches is a highly recommended experience because this is probably when they shine the most. Gaining popularity, followers, brothers, and donations consequently helps to have more resources for their charitable social work and, therefore, improve the conditions of the less fortunate in their neighborhoods. For this reason, they try to give their best, especially at the exit from the temple that houses them, and the spectacle is truly admirable.

Imagery is the sculptural specialty dedicated to the representation of religious motifs and is closely tied to the historic-artistic heritage of Seville. Some of the greatest sculptors in history have left their works over the centuries in the carvings of the Sevillian brotherhoods, and while they can be visited year-round in their temple, when they go out in procession, they acquire a magical aura that cannot be understood unless seen in person.

Martínez Montañés, Juan de Mesa, Castillo Lastrucci, Ruíz Gijón, Pedro Roldán (and his daughter La Roldana) are some of the names to look for in the guides to truly appreciate the beauty of their works and images, carved and created in many cases centuries ago, whose value, not just sentimental, but historical and patrimonial, is practically incalculable. Holy Week can also serve as a walking museum of Baroque art.

Although it may seem complex to understand, Seville is a very passionate city, and many people structure their lives around this celebration. It's not surprising to see people with tears in their eyes, both from excitement when their brotherhood finally goes out in procession after many months of work; and from disappointment if it doesn't go out due to inclement weather like frequent rain. What doesn't come out in tears goes out in sighs.

It's also common to see people dressed more elegantly than usual, especially on Palm Sunday, when men traditionally wear suits and women wear elegant dresses almost like wedding attire. "When in Rome, do as the Romans do," says the proverb.

It's also common to find people who identify as atheists, agnostics, or of any other mindset enjoying Holy Week. One can be a brother and an atheist, a republican and a costalero, and everything and nothing at the same time.

Trying to understand everything at once only leads to frustration. It's better to take it step by step, enjoying the process, the ambiance, the unique images and scenes, the smell of orange blossom in the streets mixed with incense, the special light of spring, and its sounds... Seville is a unique city, and its Holy Week makes it even more so.

May these tips help to understand and live it a little better together.

To the heavens with her!

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