The South Koreans are said to be some of the hardest working people on the planet. That may be why they play so hard, too. They are currently riding a wave of hedonistic popular culture – locally called hallyu – which has catapulted their home-grown movies, soap operas and fashion into the spotlight. Not to mention their pop music, here called K-pop, and the singing/dancing sensation Psy, whose dance track Gangnam Style last weekend became YouTube’s most-watched video of all time, with more than 800 million views.
Across the capital there are all the signs of a self-assured trendsetting city, seen through its pop-up stores and underground live gigs and a vibrant independent café culture and low-key bookshops. South Korea has become the number one byword for cool among Asia’s youth, and its capital, Seoul, is one of the world’s most wired cities. So even if the Seoul vibe is not discernible on the street where you live, you can locate the buzz instantly on your Samsung phone or LG tablet.
For first-time tourists, it is not easily apparent how to tackle such a massive, crowded and densely populated city – as is the case with many modern Asian metropolises. There are few obvious must-sees (Gyeongbokgung Palace, the National Museum, Gwan gjiang Market). Beyond visiting those sites, the best way to get to grips with the city is to join the 24-hour Seoul lifestyle. That might include visiting Dongdaemun all-night market or browsing among the hundreds of cosmetic shops in Myeongdong; it might also include a midnight session of indoor “screen golf”, belting out some K-pop karaoke, here called noraebang, or, of course, re-enacting the Gangnam Style dance. Here are a few pointers:
The old
The Joseon dynasty ruled a united Korea from the late 14th century until 1910 with an ideology based on Confucian principles. In the earliest days the country’s leaders resided at Gyeongbokgung, the oldest and largest palace in Seoul consisting of a series of regal buildings, stone gates and elegant courtyards. There is a regular changing of the guard ceremony here involving soldiers dressed in flowing robes and rather comical false beards.
South of Gyeongbokgung is the area of Insadong, the main thoroughfare of which is lined with handicraft shops, traditional tea-houses and art galleries. In the Ssamziegil complex you can find shops selling local artisans’ works, including celadon vases, calligraphy, embroidery and handmade paper lanterns. Narrow alleyways are lined with stalls touting rice cakes, traditional candy and quince tea. At the southern end of the street is Tapgol Park, where locals practise martial arts and play the traditional board game of omok.
If you're craving some of the best street food in Asia, Gwangjang Market is the place to go. This lively marketplace offers a wide array of mouth-watering options at affordable prices, allowing you to immerse yourself in a truly atmospheric dining experience. Don't miss out on trying bibimbap, a delectable mixture of meat, vegetables, and egg served on a bed of rice. Another must-try is the sizzling nokdu bindaetteok, which are savory mung bean pancakes that will leave your taste buds craving more.
Every meal in Korea comes with a side of kimchi, a fiery and tangy fermented dish made from vegetables such as cabbage, lettuce, or radish, and smothered with vibrant red pepper paste. Korean cuisine often goes unnoticed in the region, but the food here is a compelling reason on its own to plan a journey to this incredible country. Indulge in the diverse flavors, embrace the bold spiciness, and savor the culinary delights that Seoul has to offer.
Seoul: A City Balancing History and Modernity
While Seoul may not immediately captivate visitors like other bustling metropolises such as Hong Kong or Shanghai, or hold the same historical allure as cities like Hanoi or Rangoon, it has a charm of its own. The city's rapid post-war reconstruction, though largely utilitarian, has been complemented by impressive architectural projects in recent years, culminating in Seoul being named the World Design Capital in 2010.
One prime example of Seoul's architectural prowess can be found in the upscale district of Gangnam. This area showcases a number of striking urban developments, including the Dongdaemun Design Plaza, a stunning creation by the renowned British architect Zaha Hadid. Complete with a park, museum, and art gallery, this plaza stands as a testament to Seoul's commitment to innovative design. Another noteworthy district, Itaewon, has been transformed by the American architect Daniel Libeskind, with the Leeum Art Museum boasting an incredible collection of modern and contemporary artworks.
Seoul is a city that seamlessly blends its historical roots with its modern aspirations, offering visitors a unique and dynamic experience. Whether you find yourself admiring the city's architectural wonders or immersing in its vibrant culture, Seoul is sure to leave a lasting impression.
At Digital Media City, visitors can explore the Digital Pavilion to experience the latest cutting-edge technology. This interactive showcase provides a glimpse into the future with groundbreaking prototypes and innovative products, offering an exciting opportunity to engage with the advancements of the electronics industry. Another popular attraction is Samsung D'light, a digital showroom that not only exhibits the history of this renowned electronics giant but also presents the latest advancements in technology, promising to revolutionize the way we live and interact.
However, Seoul's transformation goes beyond just embracing futuristic advancements. Recognizing the importance of preserving the environment and improving the overall quality of life, city officials have implemented various initiatives. An outstanding example of this commitment is the restoration of Cheonggyecheon, an ancient waterway located in the heart of downtown Seoul. Once hidden beneath a busy motorway, it has been revitalized to become a tranquil oasis adorned with a clear stream, cascading waterfalls, and picturesque tree-lined paths.
The scary
All visitors should have the DMZ or Demilitarized Zone between North and South Korea on their itinerary. It is a fascinating, sobering day-trip up to the DMZ, only an hour’s drivenorth of Seoul – or within missile-striking distance, as tourists here are repeatedly reminded. For more than 50 years, troops from both sides have glared at each other across the three-mile-wide buffer zone which splits the peninsula from the east coast to the west coast. Established at the end of the Korean War, it is one of the world’s most heavily fortified borders; there are thousands of troops stationed here with intermittent watchtowers and signs warning of landmines.
Tourists can also visit the Joint Security Area at Pan munjeom, the village which straddles the frontier and where cross-border negotiations take place. They can walk the length of the “Third Tunnel of Aggression”, which South Korea discovered in 1974 and say was dug by the North in order to enable a surprise attack. The North Korean authorities say it was only a coal mine.
In spite of the gravity of the situation – North and South Korea are still technically at war – I was conscious of a strong sense of resilience among South Koreans which sometimes translated into black humour. “Did you bring your anti-landmine shoes?” the local guide, Richard, asked as I stepped off the tour bus. “No defecting to the North,” he added.
Looking towards the border I was told how to distinguish between the two sides. “The hills covered with trees are in South Korea,” a local explained. “We carried out a tree replanting scheme after the war but in the north the hills are bare. They chop them down for firewood or even to eat the bark.”
Back in the bus, Richard tried to lighten the mood. “All men must do around two years of national military service here,” he said. “That is their duty. South Korean women’s duty is to say goodbye to their boyfriend and find a nice new one who has already finished his service.”
Back in the city there is more information about the Korean War and its continuing repercussions at the War Memorial & Museum in Itaewon. It is remarkable to compare the crippling poverty depicted in the exhibitions to the prosperity South Korea now enjoys outside the museum’s doors.
Whether you are reflecting on history or getting a glimpse into the future, Seoul delivers.
Going Gangnam style
There is nowhere in Asia right now that is hotter than Gangnam, the gleaming district of Seoul which translates to “south of the Hangang river” and the neighbourhood which forms the backdrop to the dance track (and YouTube sensation) Gangnam Style. (The South Korean singer Psy – “whoop, whoop!” – has a lot to answer for as millions of people on the planet ride an imaginary horse in imitation of his quirky dance moves.)
What is Gangnam style? According to Psy himself it is about “dressing classy and dancing cheesy”.
“Actually, Psy is not really Gangnam style,” says Woo Eun Young at Seoul’s K-pop dance school Def Company. “He is a chubby 34 year-old doing a funny dance. But we love him. He may be satirising Gangnam society, but he is also showing the world who we are.”
Gangnam, an affluent district in Seoul, is synonymous with opulence, extravagance, and sophistication. Its upscale residences, high-end shops, and chic eateries epitomize luxury. Moreover, the neighborhood boasts a plethora of cosmetic surgery clinics, round-the-clock spas, and karaoke bars.
This bustling area serves as a gathering spot for Seoul's trendy youth, who can often be found congregating near Gangnam's metro station, donning skinny jeans, sporting fashionable unkempt hairstyles, and accentuating their looks with heavy makeup. These stylish individuals even embrace the trendy fashion accessory of oversized plastic eyeglasses, often without the need for lenses.
Unbeknownst to many, Gangnam is not just a district brimming with vogue and glamour; it also holds historical landmarks, such as the majestic Bongeunsa Temple, which dates back to the Silla Dynasty. As Seoul's financial center, it not only provides a wealth of entertainment options but also serves as a hub for business and commerce, attracting a myriad of professionals from various industries.
Explore the vibrant world of K-pop in Seoul with open-house dance classes offered by Def Company. According to Woo Eun Young, these classes have gained enormous popularity, attracting not only locals but also international enthusiasts from diverse backgrounds such as the UK, Brazil, and Japan. The allure of K-pop transcends the desire for stardom, as many participants simply join for the sheer enjoyment it offers.
For those in search of the stylish Gangnam look, the Apgujeong area boasts the most elegant shops in Seoul. Here, you'll discover a range of upscale options like 10 Corso Como Seoul, a sister store to the original in Milan, where you can find cutting-edge local designer pieces. Look out for Galleria as well, a luxury department store that radiates sophistication. During your shopping spree, don't forget to take a break at the trendy Gorilla in the Kitchen, a restaurant known for attracting celebrities - you may even catch a glimpse of its owner, the renowned screen actor Bae Yong-joon. Additionally, satisfy your cravings for innovative Korean cuisine by visiting Jung Sikdang, a fine-dining establishment renowned for its Neo-Korean dishes, which also has a branch in New York.
Immerse yourself in the vibrant world of K-pop at Everysing, a karaoke haven and K-pop hub owned by the largest entertainment company in South Korea. Capture memorable moments with your favorite stars at photo booths and indulge in the extensive collection of K-pop memorabilia. If you're longing for more interaction, head to Star Avenue Lotte World where you can step into the realm of popular television soaps, write heartfelt fan letters to your idols, and test your knowledge of pop culture. Additionally, discover your horoscope compatibility with a celebrity of your choice, and uncover intriguing insights into your potential future.
While exploring these whimsical experiences, I couldn't help but muse upon the traditional gender roles ingrained within K-pop culture. According to my horoscope, it stated that in relationships, "the man leads while the woman supports unconsciously." These conservative notions may seem predictable or unadventurous, yet both partners in this dynamic find happiness. Although I couldn't ignore a hint of disappointment, I realized that my destiny might not align with a life partnered with a K-pop star.
Your Guide to Seoul
Travel Options
For those embarking from Heathrow, British Airways provides a direct route to vibrant Seoul six times each week. The flight duration is typically 11 to 12 hours. Depending on your preferred travel comfort, return fares vary with World Traveller Class starting at £650, World Traveller Plus at £999, Club World at £2,596, and those opting for utmost luxury, First Class fares commence from £5,772.
Cox & Kings is the agency that facilitated Michelle Jana Chan's journey. They propose an eight-night independent exploration of South Korea from £2,595 which encompasses the price of direct flights via BA, daily breakfast and lunch, private transfers and excursions. Notably, a shorter four-night option centered around a stay at the upscale Conrad Seoul Hotel that includes roundtrip British Airways flights, airport transfers, and an exclusive full-day city tour from £1,795 can suit those on a tighter schedule.
For those who prefer a more home-like stay in South Korea, there are numerous serviced apartments available that ensure comfort and convenience in the vibrant city. You can find a wide selection of these on Seoul's hotels page >> https://www.seoulhotelspage.com/en/type/apartments-3/. The mix of culture, convenience, and homely amenities offered by these apartments will definitely enhance your visit.
Best Time to Visit Seoul
Seoul experiences extreme cold winters and humid summers, making spring and autumn the ideal seasons to explore the city. Although these months tend to attract more tourists, the pleasant temperatures and beautiful scenery make it worthwhile. Additionally, several festivals throughout the year add vibrant color and excitement to Seoul's cultural calendar.
One of the highlights is the cherry blossom season in April when cherry trees come alive with delicate pink flowers for approximately 10 days. Yeouido Park offers the perfect setting to witness this breathtaking spectacle. Moreover, in May, locals celebrate Buddha's birthday with the Lotus Lantern Festival, which features stunning temple decorations and a mesmerizing lantern parade.
Another significant event is Chuseok in September, a national holiday filled with games, feasts, and traditional customs, marking the Korean autumn harvest and giving thanks. If you're looking for a unique and immersive cultural experience, attending these festivals during your visit to Seoul will surely leave lasting memories.
Seoul's Park Hyatt
LOCATED IN Seoul, South Korea
Standing as a beacon of sophistication and luxury, the five-star Park Hyatt Seoul delivers an exquisite experience in the heart of Seoul's bustling metropolis...Starting at £ 243 per night Verify availability. Rates are supplied by Booking.com
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Luxurious Grand Hyatt, Seoul
Located in Seoul, South Korea
Renowned as one of the eminent hospitality gems, the five-star Grand Hyatt Seoul exhibits ... Starting from £ 165 each night Verify Availability Pricing sourced from Booking.com
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