Landscapes, Towns, and Routes to Enjoy Autumn in Ourense

The inland province of Galicia has so many charms that one could say it doesn't need either the Cantabrian or the Atlantic Ocean to captivate. With its forests, trails, villages, and rivers, it offers everything from remnants of a water-linked past to landscapes of heroic viticulture, historic Roman footprints, thermal zones, ancient trees, and protected spaces where autumn bursts forth vibrantly with colors that cover everything in a warm patina that is impossible to resist.

The small municipality of Allariz has become an example of heritage recovery. This town, one of the prettiest in Ourense, won the European Urbanism Award in 1994, thanks to its Historic-Artistic Ensemble filled with grand houses, quaint squares, and monuments that transport visitors to a past full of splendor. Along with the beauty of its architectural gems, such as the Church of Santiago and Santo Estevo, the Castro Ojea Tower House, or the Santa Clara Convent, which boasts the largest Baroque cloister in Spain, the beauty of its surroundings adds to the allure.

The Roman bridge of Vilanova, built in the early 13th century, is a significant emblem with its two arches over the Arnoia River, overseeing a riverside with green banks that blend with the seasons and house resting places and historical sites, such as the Church of Santa María de Vilanova, linked to the Order of Malta. Ancient mills, large groves, and river beaches are framed within the Biosphere Reserve of the Allariz Area, a place of special interest that also embraces towns like Vilar de Santos and A Bola.

In the parish of Chandrexa, part of the Concello de Parada de Sil, there lies a chestnut grove that spans centuries. To reach it, a circular route starts from the town, offering sights of water mills, river beaches, and spots like the Balcón de Madrid viewpoint, one of the best-known in the region, from where families bid farewell to merchants heading to the capital for fortune.

This location is home to the Entrambosrios chestnut tree, estimated to be around 700 years old and reaching a height of 16 meters with a trunk nearly ten meters in circumference. There is also another circular route that begins and ends at the Fábrica da Luz, following the course of the Mao River, passing through the villages of A Miranda and Forcas and the necropolis of San Vítor.

Centuries of history can be traced through the stones of these monasteries scattered throughout the region. Chosen by the Christian community of past times, these buildings exude a spiritual weight that is still palpable today among their walls. There are so many complexes that it's hard to explore them all in one day, which is why they are usually divided into two itineraries.

The first focuses on the interior of the Ribeira Sacra, featuring places like the Monastery of San Pedro de Rocas, the oldest in Galicia; the Monastery of Santa María de Xunqueira de Espadanedo; and the Monastery of Santa María de Montederramo. In the second route is the Monastery of Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil, now a National Tourism Parador; the Monastery of Santa Cristina de Ribas de Sil, a Romanesque jewel; and the Monastery of San Salvador de Ferreira de Pantón, the only inhabited monastery in Ribeira Sacra, known for its delightful sweets.

Known as the thermal province, Ourense is one of the best places to immerse oneself in peaceful, warm waters surrounded by nature. From the capital, a pedestrian path follows the banks of the Miño River after the Millennium Bridge. Just 5 km away, several facilities and recreational areas begin to appear, such as A Chavasqueira, the O Tinteiro spring, the O Muíño da Veiga spring, the Outariz, the Burga de Canedo, Prexigueiro, and many others. Additionally, there is a thermal train that travels through some of these wonders without the need for private transportation. In the rest of the province, other spas, thermal pools, and ideal swimming spots await those who want to soak up the autumn surroundings while relaxing.

The municipality of A Pobra de Trives holds more charms than initially meet the eye. Located in the Central Ourense Mountains, this town boasts one of the most beautiful routes in the province. Starting from Ponte Navea, it leads into a dense forest that traces some Roman remnants, such as the Ara de Vilanova at the Chapel of the Incarnation, or the bridge spanning the Navea River, a tributary of the Sil.

Amidst centuries-old chestnut groves and a lovely oak woods, a path winds through the Pontenovo Hydroelectric Power Plant and rises to Pena Folenche, a small rehabilitated village that serves as a viewpoint over the Navea and Bibei valleys, where towns like San Xoán de Río, home to a unique forest known as As Reboleiras do Navea, can be found. Following the route, a stop at some of the best-preserved drying houses in Galicia, where locals once dried their chestnuts, is a must.

In the Carballiño region, the Arenteiro River not only charts a course sprinkled with sublime nature but also leaves a legacy in the shape of mills, paper factories, power plants, laundries, bridges, and even spas on both banks. And among all this heritage flows the Paseo do Arenteiro, a trail that starts from the century-old Ponte Veiga of O Carballiño and reveals something interesting every few steps over its 11 km that connects to Boborás. Along this easy walk, you can catch a glimpse of the Pena dos Namorados and cross the Etnographic Park of Arenteiro, where the Muíños do Anxo museum is located.

Further along, the path crosses up to five bridges over the river, reaching the village of Moldes, alongside ancient fair stalls where trade occurred in times past. After this, the Romanesque church of San Mamede, a national monument, and its cemetery, resting place of some Galician intellectuals, marvels in an environment of chestnuts that create a unique scene in autumn. Continuing onward, the trail reaches the remains of the Castro Cavadoso fortress and winds to Cabanelas, the Pozo dos fumes, and finally, the Pazos de Arenteiro.

When it comes to unique forests, the one at the foot of some of the highest peaks in Galicia, Pena Trevinca, the Teixadal de Casaio certainly lives up to this title. The largest group of yews in Europe numbers over 300 trees on a steep hillside that, over the years, has helped preserve the forest in good condition, accessible by routes that are not suitable for everyone but only for the most experienced.

Located in the parish of Casaio, in Carballeda de Valdeorras, the yew grove is also accompanied by holly, alders, and ashes, as well as the waterfalls cascading down from the surrounding mountains. It's important to note that the yews in this forest, some over 500 years old, are also famous for their high toxicity. To reach them, you must walk about nine hours through areas that almost exceed two thousand meters in altitude, so a guide is recommended.

Between Ribeira Sacra and the Central Ourense Mountains lies a unique forest in Europe, a grove of birch trees accompanied by oaks, hollies, and heathers that constitutes a botanical treasure in the province. Located on the slopes of the Sierra de San Mamede, it presents a prime example of Eurosiberian vegetation from northern Spain, which takes on a palette of oranges, yellows, and ochres in autumn that is hard to resist photographing.

The birch forest of Gabín or Montederramo is accessible through a circular route of less than 10 km steeped in the stories of Manuel Blanco Romasanta, who justified his actions by claiming to be a werewolf. Legends aside, the birch route is a gift for those wanting to immerse themselves in nature among native species and a varied fauna of deer, wild boars, and partridges.

Ribeira Sacra is one of the most important wine regions in Spain. The courses of the Miño, Sil, and Cabe rivers carve canyons whose slopes are a spectacle not only due to their geological profile but also because of the vineyards clinging to them in a singular landscape. Marked by the religious ensembles that name it, this area boasts 2,500 acres of vineyards dominated by grape varieties such as albariño, godello, mencía, and merenzao.

The heroic viticulture dictated by the steepness of the land makes mechanization difficult or even impossible in many cases, which means the harvest is as traditional as it was in the past. These terraces, lush with green leaves in spring and summer, are painted with autumn colors as the season arrives, making this already spectacular landscape even more unique. The best way to admire them is from viewpoints such as the Mirador de As Penas de Matacás or on a river cruise.

Although there are numerous waterfalls in Ourense, this is one of the most beautiful for a route. Specifically, it begins at the thermal site of O Bañiño in A Forxa and traverses over 7 km of walkways and trails to the San Fiz bridge. The Muiños das Penas, reconstructed water mills in the area, see waters tumble over O Pozo do Inferno, already marking the approach to the beautiful Fervenza do Barbantiño, a 15-meter waterfall that is a spectacle during rainy seasons. Among oak trees, beeches, and ferns, the surroundings become magical, complemented by a climb to the top of San Fiz to view the medieval bridge from the 13th century, once part of a Royal Road.

Subscribe to our newsletter to discover the most surprising travels every Sunday