Mosaic of History
Iliplenses. Those born in the Andalusian village of Niebla are not known as niebleños, but as iliplenses, a legacy from the centuries when this town in the province of Huelva was the Roman Ilipa, which in turn inherited the Tartessian Ilípula. It was later called Elepla by the Visigoths, Lebla by the Arabs, and Niebla by the Christians.
This name change reflects the long history of this town of 4,300 inhabitants, evidenced by its most notable monument: the wall. Its perimeter stretches two kilometers, covering an area of 16 hectares, and features five well-preserved gates, namely those of Seville, Socorro, Embarcadero, Agua, Agujero, and Buey.
Despite the damage from the 1755 earthquake (the same one that destroyed Lisbon) and the attacks by Napoleonic troops, as many as 48 square towers and five rectangular towers remain standing, a remarkable record in Andalusia, eclipsed in Spain only by sites like Ávila.
The Resilience of The Red
Due to the color of the stones of the wall, Niebla has been known for centuries as 'The Red'. The original fortified enclosure was built by the Tartessians, utilized by the Romans, and significantly reinforced by the Almohads. In fact, it is the largest and best-preserved wall of this culture in Spain.
They were so resilient that in 1262, after a nine-month siege, Alfonso X of Castile could only achieve the surrender because he had an unexpected weapon: the bombarda, a primitive cannon that fired metal or stone projectiles, and was used for the first time in Spain at this site.
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Discovering Niebla from the Castle
Inside the walls, one can discover a tranquil neighborhood (considering that Niebla has expanded beyond the walls), with narrow streets where the houses replicate the aesthetic of white facades, windows with wrought iron bars, along with others showcasing tiled or brick coverings, reminiscent of the Mudéjar style that permeates several monuments.
If one is looking for a starting point, it could very well be the Guzmanes Castle, another witness to the footsteps of civilizations in Niebla: the structure, located next to the Socorro Gate and built on the highest point of the hill where the town is situated, had previously been the site of an Arab alcazaba.
During the tours organized by the town hall, visitors can climb the towers, which offer the best panoramic views of the historic center, and among these aspects of dark tourism, one of the most popular spots is the passage through the torture room. It is worth noting that within its thick walls, between July and August, the Castle of Niebla Theater and Dance Festival is held, one of the most important cultural events of the summer in Huelva.
The Church of Santa María de Granada
If you walk for about five minutes, you arrive at the nerve center of Niebla: the Plaza de Santa María, where a 360-degree glance allows you to see several historically significant sites. The most important is the Church of Santa María de Granada, which shares the same history of civilizations as the castle or the walls.
Upon entering, a mosaic of styles and architectural imprints can be seen. The entrance columns are Roman, as there was once an ancient temple dedicated to Jupiter, and the Visigoths left behind a curious episcopal seat made of stone (having been the seat of the diocese of Baetica).
From the Muslim period - when they converted the paleochristian church into a mosque - remnants of the access patio, the main door with its lobed arches, and the first body of the bell tower corresponding to the old minaret remain. If one looks closely, in the presbytery, remnants of the mihrab (niche indicating the direction to Mecca) and the mimbar (pulpit where the imam speaks) can be detected. And during the Christian era, between the 15th and 16th centuries, the church took shape with a structure of three naves under the Gothic-Mudéjar aesthetic, as can be seen in detail in its beautiful coffered ceiling.
Other Historical Sites to See in Niebla
The other historical building that catches attention in the square is the old hospital of Our Lady of Angels, dating back to the 16th century. Since it ceased its health functions, it has served as the town hall, prison, courthouse, post office, and even a barracks for the Civil Guard. It currently has a more interesting purpose, as it is the headquarters of the Casa de la Cultura, where temporary exhibitions and events are organized.
The town hall is modern but respects the aesthetics of the surrounding homes. After leaving it behind and walking a few minutes north, you arrive at the Church of San Martín, which was the town's minor mosque and later synagogue. Closed to the public due to being in ruins, its 15th-century apse is in good condition. Adjacent is the Chapel of the Lord of the Column, which houses a figure that is very popular in the religious devotion of Niebla.
On the eastern and southern flanks of the walls runs the Tinto River, which was one of the engines of economic and social progress between the 15th and 16th centuries. This course is crossed by a Roman bridge reconstructed after the Civil War, while near the train station, there is an iron bridge where the railroads of the Riotinto line operated until 1984.
What to Eat in Niebla
But it's not all history: there should also be room to try the recommended Iliplense cuisine, where the regional vegetables form a rich base for dishes like tagarninas esparragás (spinach scramble), asparagus in omelet, or habas enzapatás (stew with pennyroyal); in addition to dishes with mushrooms like gurumelos - joined by white beans, chickpeas, and cod.
When it comes to meats, one must try the lamb stew and the scramble with tomato; and since Holy Week is coming, it may be the opportunity to discover roscos, pestiños, and honey roses. And let's enjoy.