Archena, the Spa of Murcia with the Soul of the Alhambra

You jump into the pool, and the contrast is striking: on one side, turquoise blue, and around, a broken and semi-arid horizon of ocher colors and rough textures. The result is beautiful and unique. The sense of isolation is heightened by the silence that reigns at the spa. The palm trees lining the facilities create a peaceful plant element to rest the eyes from the mineral sobriety of the landscape. The place where we bathe is a (fortunate) thermal anomaly where the water emerges at 52.5°C after a subterranean journey of fifteen millennia. Yes, the origins of the Archena Spa date back long into history, to the 5th century BC, which demonstrates the wealth that the Region holds in its towns. In fact, here is the most beautiful town to visit in May.

This confluence of wellness and health in such a geological setting is what makes this spa unique in the heart of the Ricote valley, functioning as a small village for robe-clad explorers. The complex covers 200,000 m2, featuring a topography characterized by a perfect meander of the Segura River.

Practically, upon entering the pools, one is bathing in waters that were once enjoyed by the Iberians: that is the dizzying cultural sequence that unfolds during a stay at the Archena Spa. At that time, the site became a mandatory stop on the trade route into the interior of the peninsula towards Cástulo, the capital of Oretania. Archaeological excavations provide evidence of structures and epigraphic texts -"Gaius Cornelius Capito and Lucius Heius LABEO, Duoviri, were responsible for restoring the aqueducts by a decree of the decurions, and they themselves attest to it"- which confirm its importance also for the Romans, who, seeking more comfort, built the first thermae and the necessary infrastructures, just as they did at the Alange spa, the only thermal baths recognized as World Heritage in Spain.

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Several centuries later, it was King Ferdinand VII who elevated the place to a reference among peninsular spas by ordering the road that connected it to Archena to be improved. Back then, as we can see in an illustration published in 1871 in La Ilustración de Madrid, the access path was a winding trail carved into the rock, only traveled by carriages. In contrast, the current complex presents an extraordinary architectural expansion, with its hotels, gardens, and an outdoor pool system that has substantially changed the visual relationship between the building and the river.

However, the definitive architectural transformation occurred between 1858 and 1878 when the complex underwent a complete renovation under the direction of architects such as José María Aguilar and Vela. Noteworthy among these architectural milestones is the decorative contribution of Manuel Castaños, who introduced the neo-Moorish style into the spa, transforming some spaces into Alhambra-like mirages, such as the beautiful starry dome of muqarnas, one of his most refined plaster works. Its octagonal structure tends to geometric infinity, creating a wonderful play of light and shadow that enriches the perception of space.

That is exactly the temperature at which the waters of the thermal circuit emerge, after their geological and millennial filtration. This means that one can experience in the 21st century, in the age of artificial intelligence, the same hydrothermal phenomenon that attracted the first Iberians. Only today, the argument is chemical: it is known that the water of the spa has a chemical composition classified as sulfur-sulfated-chlorinated-sodium-calcium, making it suitable for rheumatological and musculoskeletal conditions, respiratory problems, dermatological issues, and stress-related states.

Another dizzying leap occurs when understanding that the current facilities represent superimposed temporal layers. In practice, it is a hydrogeological document and a living archaeological record of the Roman conception of the public bath, the Islamic tradition of the hammams, and modern balneotherapy. This wellness ecosystem is articulated through gardens and botanical elements native to the Mediterranean, such as palm trees, laurels, and orange trees. The three hotels (Termas, Levante, and León), restaurants, and the Casino round out the sensory experience of the spa.

One might think of Hermann Hesse, in his brief autobiographical tale, where between daydreaming and reality, he describes his experience in a spa in Baden: "It was a matter of enduring here for three or four weeks, bathing daily, walking whenever possible, and driving away all emotion and worry." Enduring three or four weeks here doesn't seem like a problem.

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